Past Newsletters

Vol 5 No 7

Stunning, Exceptional… Awesome!

Is there any flower more arresting and sophisticated, elegant and graceful, mysterious and remarkable than an orchid? This month we have shipped a combination of Cymbidium (the larger one) and Dendrobium orchids, accompanied by Hala leaves and Bear Grass. Our designer showed us many stunning arrangements using these flowers and greens, so have a ball and let your creative spirit reign! There are no right or wrong ways to arrange these magnificent orchids!

When you follow our directions for flower care, you will have orchids to admire for two or more weeks. In fact, the smaller variety may out last those hardy Hala leaves and the Bear Grass. Each time we have shipped similar hybrid orchids, several customers have called to tell us that after more than 3 weeks, they still had a bouquet!

Greeks used orchids as aphrodisiacs

Some people used to think that orchids were very fragile and all very similar, but no plant family is more diverse. Actually, the orchid family is the largest plant family we know about, and orchids can be grown in almost all possible environments! They actually grow wild on every continent except Antarctica. (No surprise... does anything grow there other than algae?)

Orchids have some unbelievably unique characteristics. The mere fact that their roots can live on air is enough to make us wonder how they can sustain themselves. Their roots are actually quite different fromthose of any other plants. A special sponge-like layer of tissue called 'velamen' completely covers each root. This special sheathing acts as a moisture collecting device while protecting the roots from direct sunlight. Wild orchids often find bizarre places to grow. It's not uncommon to find them in the crevices of rocks on the side of a cliff!

25,000 orchid species have been identified!

This family is amazingly diverse... from the thimble-sized Mystacidium Caffrum to the 20-foot-tall Renanthera Storei. Some orchids produce blossoms no larger than a mosquito, while others are as large as a 12" dinner plate. And our Twenty First Century propagation methods and hybridizing trends are offering us more choices than ever before. The many species have different shapes, forms and growth habits. Some bare large flowers of bright hues, while others have little flowers of softer tones. They may flower singly or in small groups of two or three per stem. Some will bloom in a big cluster or a branch, yet others bend down in a flowing cluster. Their scents also run a wide gamut, ranging from those without any smell, to a soft and subtle scent, and to a more full-bodied and pungent fragrance. No wonder people grow orchids for a hobby... they are so interesting.

Well Kept Secret

Orchids are relatively easy to grow! In fact, some say they’re not easy to kill! If you grow other ornamental plants either in the garden or indoors, you can grow orchids. Most are long-lived. In fact, some species are virtually immortal, given the proper attention. Divisions or propagations of orchids discovered in the 19th century are still growing and flowering today!

Once a hobby for the wealthy, orchids are now reasonably priced because of modern reproductive methods. Temperature is the most critical factor in blooming. In summer orchid plants will tolerate temperatures up to about 85° F (30° C) and in winter they are happiest with a night temperature of 5O° F (10° C). A little word for the wise... the hardest thing about orchids is to not become addicted. Trying to own one orchid is like trying to eat one peanut!

WHERE

Usually Orchids are best kept outdoors from May to September, but bring them in before the danger of frost. Shelter them from hot sun and from the rain as well, since you need to control the watering. During the winter, a cool room is the best spot for your orchids. If the room is too warm, the flower buds may drop off and you will have to wait another year to see the effort of your labor!

HUMIDITY

All orchids need humidity but they don’t like wet feet, so place a tray of water under your orchid, but put the pot on top of a trivet or pebbles which are higher than the water level. Keep the water that surrounds your plant fresh. In the hot summer weather it's a good idea to mist your plants every day, but not in the winter.

WATER

Like most plants, orchids require quite a lot of water in summer, roughly about a pint a week and in exceptionally hot weather even two pints twice a week (providing the plants are in open bark which will drain immediately). In winter they need much less - about a half a pint every week to 10 days. The large amount of water is necessary in the summer to maintain very large pseudo bulbs and to help with new growth.

FEEDING

Orchids are quite hungry and need to be fed all the year round. They should be fed every week to ten days. On the fourth week hold the food and give them plain water to avoid any build up of undesirable chemicals around the roots. The plants seem to thrive on foliar feeding, and if you are using this method both sides of all leaves need to be sprayed. Any suitable half strength feed will do, or special orchid food from nurseries and garden centers.

Your orchids will benefit more by giving them a higher nitrogen feed early in spring to help with the growth of new pseudo bulbs. By giving a food such as Tomarite or Phostrogen from late June or beginning of July, you will help to ensure that flower spikes are formed. These usually peep through sometime in August or September. Standard orchids can become very large and take up lots of room. If you have tight quarters, miniature orchids are now available, and both kinds of plants can be divided to provide new plants.

POTTING

Potting is usually done in the spring after blooming, normally every two years or when the potting medium decomposes. Shake all the old potting mix off the roots, dividing the plant if desired. Divisions of green bulbs with leaves must have 3 to 4 bulbs minimum to bloom.

Pick a potting mix that will hold moisture well... a medium-grade fir bark with peat moss and perlite is a common mix. Select a pot that will allow for at least 2 to 3 years of pseudobulb growth before crowding the pot. Place the active growing bulbs farthest from the side of the pot. Spread the roots over a cone of the mix in the bottom of the pot, and fill the pot with medium, working it among the roots, and tamping firmly. The junction of roots and pseudo bulbs should be about ½" to 1" below the top of the mix.

Bulbs without leaves are called backbulbs, and need special care to grow. Backbulbs may be left on the division to add strength, or removed to propagate. Take single backbulbs, and bury halfway in a bark or peat/sand mix. Keep your bulbs warm and in the shade with roots that are more dry than wet, and give them lots of humidity. When new growth sprouts, pot as above. It may take up to three years to produce a blooming-size plant from this method.

Q. Where can I get more information?

A. There are many excellent books available to help a novice grower learn more. The American Orchid Society (AOS) offers an extensive book list, all of which can be ordered online at their Bookshop. Among the many publications in this listing is a variety of illustrated handbooks published by the AOS covering many topics, including the control of common orchid pests and diseases, orchid photography, and procedures for judging and exhibition. The AOS also offers a series of cultural video tapes, all providing the most updated information. Perhaps the most useful learning step is to become a member of your local orchid society. Currently, there are more than 550 Affiliated Societies scattered around the globe.

Check out the following websites if you are an avid orchid fan. http://www.orchid.org.uk/, http://www.orchidmall.com/reading.htm, http://www.geocities.com/orchidgrowing.

Q. What sort of soil do orchids need?

A. Would you believe that most don't require any soil! Orchids can be divided into four types according to growing conditions. Most are classified as "Epiphytes" or air plants which grow chiefly on trees. Lithophytes' cling to the surfaces of rocks. "Saprophytes" grow in decaying vegetation on the forest floor, and "Terrestrials" anchor themselves in soil or sand. Since most orchids are Epiphytes, they can be grown on tree bark (fir or redwood), crumbled charcoal, pebbles, or on tree-fern or cork plaques.

Q. Should orchids be protected from drafts?

A. No. As a matter of fact, orchids require moving air. They do best where there is a steady, moist breeze. However, if grown indoors, blooming plants should be positioned away from air-conditioning or hot-air vents.

Q. Are most orchids fragrant?

A. Some are so powerfully scented they will perfume an entire greenhouse or living room. A few orchid fragrances defy description, while others mimic familiar aromas -raspberry, coconut, lilacs and citrus. Others have no scent, but rely on shape and color to attract insects or birds for pollination, thereby continuing the life cycle of the species.

Q. How often do orchids bloom and how long do orchid blooms last?

A. Some bloom once a year, others bloom several times a year, and some even bloom continuously. Blooms of hybrids of the genus "Cattleya" may last from one to four weeks on the plant. Those of the genus "Phalaenopsis" commonly last from one to four months.

Q. Is conservation of orchids an important issue?

A. Absolutely! Sadly, orchid species are becoming extinct faster than they can be described and classified. Threats to orchids originate primarily from loss of habitat and collecting. The American Orchid Society (AOS) advocates the purchase of only artificially propagated orchids, either from meristems or seeds, which will help discourage the collecting of orchid species in their natural habitat. The AOS also encourages orchidists to pollinate orchid species already in their collections and to share the seedlings with their fellow orchidists. For more information about this serious topic, and to learn how to get involved and to support conservation efforts, visit: http://www.orchidweb.org or email the AOS at TheAOS@compuserve.com.

Florists Discover Beargrass

Also known as Indian basket grass, Squaw-grass, soap-grass and Quip-Quip, this unique green is actually an evergreen, perennial herb from the lily family. Its basal leaves form thick clumps that rise up from a short, woody rhizome. Although they and are scabrous, tough, and wiry, the grass-like leaves easily slide out of their sheaths. The plant might not bloom for many years, but when it does it will produce a leafy flowering stalk that sometimes reaches up to 6 feet tall with copious small white flowers. The flowers bloom starting from the lowest to the most upper flowers, culminating in a knob of tight buds on top of the flower cluster. Beargrass colonies tend to bloom in 5 to 7 year cycles.

According to historical stories, Native Americans in the Rocky Mountain region would trade this plant to tribes from outlying areas. Prairie tribes used the boiled roots for a hair tonic, and also as a treatment for sprains. Southwest tribes use Beargrass in basket-making. Tribes from the coast dye and bleach the leaves, to create designs that are woven into their baskets. The leaves produced the first year after a fire are preferred for basket weaving because they are thinner, stronger and more pliable. Now that florists have recently “discovered” this evergreen, some national forests are issuing permits for Beargrass harvesting.

Hala, the Drama Queen

Your Flax, or Hala leaves, represent another creative design element. These leaves came from California, but this species probably hales from New Zealand. Flax is prized for its evergreen foliage and dusky red nectar filled flowers. Numerous new cultivars and hybrids are available with colorful red, bronze, salmon and cream-colored leaves. If you can imagine it… it probably already exists somewhere.

In New Zealand, the Maoris have used Flax for centuries in rope, baskets and clothing. It was also the basis of a substantial linen industry in the early 1900's. The nectar filled flowers produced by some varieties have always been an important source of food for New Zealand native birds. And now, Flax is also highly prized by floral designers for its versatility in arrangements. Its form can be changed from whole leaves, to ribbons of all widths. You can tie it in knots… whatever… and of course it's long lasting.

New Zealand Flax can reach 8 to 10 feet with upright 3 to 4 inch wide leaves. The orange-red flowers form on tall stalks in late spring. Nurseries generally grow this plant from seed and will showcase many varieties. Often one planting bed will feature many varieties. The toughness of this plant is evidenced by the variety of its habitats, from beaches, river mouths, on coastal cliffs with salt sea spray, to alpine lakes. Flax is ubiquitous throughout the New Zealand landscape!

Arrangement Tips

These very special flowers can stand alone, so you could even make more than one arrangement with them. You can’t go wrong with orchids, so don’t be afraid to experiment. Or try this one. Start with a tall vase which has a small opening, and add some polished rocks or marbles. Cut a slit in the center of each Hala leaf and invert the top portion of each leaf into and through its slit. Now place each one at an angle. Fill the vase with the Dendrobiums – cutting them all the same length is fine. Then cut the Cymbidium stem longer than the Dendrobiums and place the Cymbidium stem in the center. Finally position the Bear Grass in several clumps, all going in the same direction – stack the blades on top of each other to help keep them together.