Past Newsletters
Vol 2 No 8
For the Love of Lilies
Lilies
have been cultivated in gardens and acclaimed in literature for centuries…
and rightfully so. Shakespeare, Joubert, and Tennyson make reference to them
as a symbol of purity and chastity, and they are mentioned even more often than
roses in the Bible. Until 1925 or so, the various original species were created
by nature. Then botanists learned how to produce hybrid Lilies that were healthier,
hardier and more ornamentally desirable. While easier to grow, today's hybrids
still require a green thumb with a little experience.
You wouldn't be foolish in thinking that one of our featured lilies was cultivated
in Los Angeles, as the name implies, but you sure would be wrong. LA Hybrid
Lilies have nothing to do with Los Angeles, the City of Angels. LA refers to
a cross between the Longiflorum (Easter Lily) and the Asiatic Lily. This group
of hybrids represents the latest in interdivisional breeding. They produce a
subtle fragrance reminiscent of raspberries and roses, and their Easter Lily
parentage. Combine this wonderful fragrance with an early bloom time, a great
resistance to disease, and a propensity to multiply… and you have a flower
worthy of featured space in your perennial garden. LAs come in many different
colors, many soft shades of pink and white, some yellows and others are more
vivid showstoppers. We choose the peach Desert Song because it's a hardy long
lasting cut flower.
A forebear of the LA Hybrid, the Asiatic Hybrid Lily, is one of vigorous growth
and bright, vibrant colors. The foliage is shorter and clings tightly to the
stem so attention is not detracted from the spectacular blooms. Unlike its Oriental
cousins, Asiatic Lilies have little or no fragrance, nevertheless they are the
most colorful, prolific, and fool-proof group of lilies, which makes them one
of the most in-demand flowers on the market. Asiatic Lilies are also a long
lasting cut flower and an excellent complement to the LA Hybrid.
We chose Myrtle to accompany the lilies…. it complements them perfectly,
lending an aromatic, piney scent to your arrangements.
If you're looking for a showy garden flower that's easy to grow I suggest you give the Asiatic Lily a try. To help you get started on your flowery path, here are some vital statistics and helpful hints to be successful beyond the garden gates.
Common
Name: Asiatic Lily
Habit: Bulb
Family: Liliaceae
Height: 3.00 to 4.00 feet
Spread: 0.75 to 1.00 feet
Bloom Color: Orange-red
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Medium wet
Maintenance: Low
Easily grown in average, medium-wet, well-drained soil in full sun to part
shade. It is best when the upper part of the plant is in full sun and roots
are in the shade. Plant bulbs 4-6" deep in rich, organic soil in the fall
or early spring (some nurseries only ship bulbs in fall, however). Potted plants
may be planted any time from spring to fall. Plant them in groups of at least
three for the best display and space 12" apart. Bulbs need good moisture
year-round. Do not allow soil to dry out. Mulch around plants to keep root zone
cool. Remove flowers as they fade to prevent seed from setting. After they bloom,
cut plants back only after leaves and stems turn yellow.
Asiatic
hybrid lilies are known for their large, often non-fragrant flowers (4-6"
wide), wide range of colors and early summer bloom (Asiatic lilies are among
the first of the lilies to bloom). It's an excellent fresh cut flower.
For the average gardener, Asiatic hybrid lilies are perhaps the easiest lilies
to grow. They are usually pest free, but potential disease problems include:
(1) lily mosaic virus (prompt control of aphids which vector the disease is
highly recommended, since there is no cure once infection occurs); (2) bulb
rot (particularly in wet, poorly drained soils); and (3) Botrytis. Plants may
need staking if grown in too much shade (stems weaken) or if grown in locations
exposed to too much wind.
An excellent, showy flower that provides color and contrast in summer to the perennial border. Also may be grown in pots or containers, but plants and flowers will be somewhat smaller.
Lily Q & A
1.
In what climates can I grow lilies?
Lilies need some winter cooling in order to flower, so in the tropics would
possibly need to be dug and stored in the fridge for 8-10 weeks, whilst being
kept moist. In very cold climates when there is not a lot of snow cover they
may need to be mulched or even lifted and stored indoors in a cool place.
2. Where should I plant my lilies?
Grow in a well-drained position. A raised bed or sloping position is strongly
recommended. The need for excellent drainage cannot be over emphasized. Grow
in part or full sun. As a general rule, strong colored lilies, i.e., reds, oranges
and yellows look better and develop stronger colors in good light; delicate
pastel colors keep their colors a little longer if protected from the heat of
the midday sun.
3. How should I plant lilies?
Ideally plant 10 cm deep, but if the drainage is less than ideal (especially
in the wetter places) plant as shallow as 5 cm. Most lilies have stem roots
just below the surface. A mulch, ground cover or shade from trees will keep
these roots cool and moist.
4. Can I grow them in pots?
Yes, use a tall (rather than squat) 15-20 cm. pot. A planter bag can also be
used. Fill the pot half full with a free draining potting mix, or make up a
mix of four parts fine bark, one part sand plus slow release fertilizer. Place
the bulb and fill the pot. A few bulbs can be planted together in a larger size
patio container.
5. Do I lift my lily bulbs in winter?
No, lily bulbs are best left undisturbed and do not need to be lifted except
in very cold climates when there is not a lot of snow cover.
6. When should I divide my bulbs?
Bulbs multiply and may be lifted and divided every three or four years. They may also be left alone for many years to give a large clump.
7. Do I cut back my lilies when they have flowered?
No, allow the lily stems to die back naturally, the dried up stems can then
be removed.
8. How often should I water my lilies?
Lilies are able to withstand dry conditions that would kill most shrubs, but
grow best with constant moisture. However good drainage is essential to ensure
they never become sodden. If possible, water without wetting the leaves.
9. Are lilies frost tender?
Not usually as they die down in winter but sometimes a late frost on new growth
in spring can cause damage.
10. How do I fertilize lilies?
Feed well, in the ground use roughly one tablespoon per plant of good quality,
general purpose fertilizer in spring and again before flowering, but no fresh
manure. In a pot, add 1 tbsp. Slow release, coated fertilizer each spring.
11. What about spraying?
Keep lilies free of aphids as these pass on virus diseases. Use an insecticide e.g., maldison (Malathion), Neem soap (obtainable from Trade Aid shops, use a dessertspoonful for 2 litres) or summer oil. Spray against fungal infection, especially before an extended period of warm, wet weather is expected, using a fungicide (e.g. Bravo, Thiram, Greenguard or Copper) or a dessertspoonful baking soda in 2 liters of warm water. Neem soap also helps against fungal diseases.
12. Can I cut my lilies for flowers?
Lilies make excellent cut flowers but cutting will reduce the bulb's potential
vigor the next season. When cutting, leave at least 1/3 rd of stem on the plant.
Always break the stems rather than cutting, as the cutting instrument can possibly
pass on virus diseases from one lily to another.
Asiatic
Lilies are one of the most reliably hardy lilies that you can grow, popular
for their brilliant color displays in late July and August. Homeowners and commercial
growers can easily increase their quantity of lilies by vegetatively propagating
the bulbs.
Asiatic hybrid lilies have scaly bulbs. These bulbs are not enclosed in a papery
covering such as an onion or tulip. Instead, the bulbs are composed of a series
of loose, fleshy scales. Anytime after flowering and throughout winter, these
scales can be harvested and propagated to produce tiny bulblets that will flower
in two or three years. The following method is an easy and quick way to get
plenty of bulbs from one large bulb.
- Remove the parent bulb from its packing material (wood shavings, sawdust, etc.). Wash the bulb in clean water to remove this material. Peel off no more than 25 percent of the spoon-shaped, fleshy scales. Discard any that appear diseased or broken.
- Fill two-thirds of a new plastic bag (Ziploc® works well) with vermiculite
that is available at garden centers and commercial greenhouses. Moisten the
vermiculite until it is uniformly wet but with no standing water.
- Drop the scales into the bag and mix into the vermiculite. Make sure each
scale is completely surrounded by moist vermiculite. A quart-sized bag can
hold about a dozen scales. Some commercial growers dust the scales with a
fungicide prior to inserting into the bag, but I have never found that necessary.
Close the bag.
- Pot up the parent bulb. Place the container in a cool environment (38 to
45·F) until growth begins. When young shoots appear, bring the container
into a warm room or greenhouse to bloom. With care, this parent bulb can be
planted outdoors in spring. If flowering occurs indoors, keep growing the
plant after flowering, and don't remove any foliage. Plant the bulb and attached
stem in the garden in June.
Set
the bag full of scales and vermiculite in a warm room (approximately 70·F).
Avoid cold windowsills or hot south-facing windows. Check the bag at least
once a week to make sure vermiculite stays moist. In about three weeks, begin
checking for small bulblets forming at the base of each scale. Keep the scales
in the vermiculite until you notice some roots and green shoots developing
from the bulblets.
- Carefully remove the bulblets from the scale, and plant them in flats or shallow containers using sterile potting mix. Water to keep the soil moist.
- After the bulblets form one, or rarely two, strap-shaped leaves, they go dormant. Place the containers or flats in a cool environment (root cellar, refrigerator, a non-freezing, approximately 40·F garage). Keep the flats moist, but avoid over watering to prevent fungal growth. They need about two months of cold temperatures to break dormancy.
- Depending on the time of year, the bulblets can be returned to the warm room or greenhouse in late spring to encourage new growth. The tiny bulblets can also be planted directly outdoors in a warm, sunny location. Some cultivars may bloom during the second summer, but the flower display is best beginning in the third summer.
